See and Ride the Trains in Europe, Amsterdam and Holland

The European Train Experience

Riding passenger trains in Europe is a pleasurable surprise, a lesson in punctuality and a study of efficient planning. If a train were to be one hour late in Holland, you would search the news for reports of a national emergency or a palace coup -- events of lesser proportion would be insufficient to delay a train. Excepting French labor strikes, soccer games, and other events of earth-shaking importance, it would seem that the ideal of Swiss clockwork is at the unshakeable core of the European train system.

I should mention that as I wrote the last paragraph, I completely ignored the handful of times where my train has been late or even cancelled. One train was cancelled after it arrived in the station and loaded passengers! The reason given was "lack of conductors." There is, indeed, a shortage of train conductors. The weather can have an effect on train service as well. I remember one time when trains were chaotically disrupted because ice from a storm had built up on the power lines over the tracks. The ice put so much weight on the lines that they snapped, effectively halting trains.

European train tracks are of high quality and offer unrivaled smoothness. In Innocents Abroad, Mark Twain said that riding French trains (in the late1800's) was boring because the ride was too smooth and so perfect. He claimed to prefer a stagecoach ride across the Western territories because there was always something happening. As a tourist in Europe, I appreciate the cozyness and relaxation while watching the countryside roll by in between walking tours of cities in Holland, Belgium and Luxembourg.

If you fly into Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport, get your tickets at the "Train Tickets" window and follow the escalator down to the train station. Your first train ride might be from this airport to Amsterdam's Centraal Station at the city center. Don't let your train experience end there! The train is much more than getting to and from the airport.

Trains are an enjoyable alternative to driving a rental car, especially in a country with differering driving customs. For a nice day trip, try the 20 minute train ride from Amsterdam to Haarlem. Stop at the tourist office, get a map, and take a walking tour of quaint Haarlem streets, cathedrals, city halls and museums. Then continue on the train 15 more minutes towards the beach town Zandvoort an Zee. There you can watch the sun set as you look over the North Sea.

Longer day trips might afford daytime views of the Rhine River while travelling in Germany and Holland. Many long-distance trains have meal cars offering good food and relaxed service. Some trains also have bar cars, which is another reason to ride the train and pass the driving along to someone else.

Using a sleeper car for overnight trips saves time or money depending on how you look at it. One favorite trip of mine was from Switzerland to Amsterdam, arriving just as the sun came up and the day began. Even better was a Spanish Talgo train I rode from Paris to Barcelona -- I had my own toilet and shower right in my sleeper. First Class in Europe is best on the Spanish Talgo Hotel Trains.

European Train Choices and Types

The variety of trains in Holland serves the diverse needs of different train users. Some people are traveling locally. They ride stoptreins -- trains that stop at every small town on shorter routes. Those going from one city to another might choose a sneltrein which skips the small stops in favor of bigger station stops. These trains are obviously faster.

Next up the ladder of speed are Intercity and Eurocity trains. IC and EC trains only travel along mainline routes and use more modern equipment. These trains offer fast travel between major Dutch and European cities. I rode an EC train once from Amsterdam along the Rhine River and east to Munich. These trains are usually populated by business travelers and offer reserved seating, nice amenities like bar and meal service, and great views of the passing scenery.

Travelers from Amsterdam to Paris can choose the Thalys Dutch high speed train. The trip lasts about 4 hours at times reaching speeds of 300 km/hr (200 miles per hour). Or choose to travel from Brussels or Paris and ride the Eurostar train through the Chunnel (English Channel Tunnel) to London, England.

Finally, you can choose night trains to travel long distances while sleeping. These trains offer Second Class couchettes, which is a train seat that reclines -- if you have a good back and don't need a real bed, this is the best budget choice.

In First Class you can buy one bed in a three bed sleeper room to share with two strangers. If you want privacy you must buy all three beds in one room, assuming they are available. As most overnight trains are international, you will be asked to give your passport to the conductor for safekeeping and customs inspections while you sleep.

Some Basic Knowledge of the European Train System

When traveling in Europe you need to stick to your budget; this means making the choice between First and Second Class travel. You can enjoy meeting people and save some money with a Second Class ticket; any typically poor Dutch person would. By sitting in Second Class, I have met interesting people who helped me understand the area I toured from a local's perspective. Often when I have a First Class ticket I still sit in Second Class because it's more convenient.

At other times after a busy day of walking and touring, First Class tickets are the only way to go for a variety of reasons. If you have a Second Class ticket and a conductor finds you in a First Class seat, he will not be happy -- he could fine you just because you mistakenly picked the wrong seat. A First Class ticket means freedom to be confused on the train.

First Class tickets are typically 40% more expensive -- other benefits include softer seats, more space, and if you're lucky you'll get a semi-private six-seat compartment only found on an older train. These compartments have doors which slid shut. On empty trains you can have a room of your own.

Many of the older trains have windows that open, a boon for smokers and their roommates. Just remember to close the windows before entering a long tunnel, or your ears will feel the change in pressure. Older trains have separate cars for First and Second Class. Newer NS trains are sealed bi-level cars with First and Second class mixed on one car. On all trains are drink trays, ashtrays and trash receptacles near virtually every train seat.

Getting Your Ticket and Boarding the Train, In That Order

When I travel in Holland and Europe, I am not normally on my way to an appointment. I won't get in trouble if I arrive late at the museum. On my earlier trips I was often late because I was lost and confused in the new land of Europe -- this happened more often when I forgot my map! No matter where you are in the world, a person who looks lost or confused is likely a tourist.

For a contrast, the train workers and conductors are at work, and they understand the train system perfectly. They check everyone's ticket on the train, and for fun they deal with any troublemakers, like people who board without good tickets. Other troublemakers sit in First Class while holding Second Class tickets.

The Dutch Railway is the Nederlandse Spoorweg (NS). NS workers are generally in a hurry. They have already heard all the stories and excuses in the book. The NS is quite a beauracracy, so the conductor's primary goal is to avoid paperwork. While they are very helpful with directions and with other tourist issues, the last thing you want to do is board a train without having a proper ticket, thus breaking the rules.

A friend who works for the NS aboard Amsterdam trains talks about people who board without validating their tickets. He points out that there are 53 stamp-boxes for the locals to use in validating local traincards and wonders aloud how the offender missed all of them -- and then issues a stern warning or fine. Once you have your plans worked out, get to the station early and go to the ticket window to get information and purchase your tickets.

Another way to approach the ticket question is to buy a rail pass. Usually you want to buy these passes before leaving the United States. The most well known pass is the Eurail pass, known in Europe at the Inter-rail pass. The Eurail Pass is expensive and broad -- it costs roughly $600 for 15 days unlimited travel in Europe.

Railpasses are available at railpass.com. While a 15-day pass may sound like a good idea, when I have 15 days in Europe I don't spend the majority of them on a train. I prefer to limit myself and stay in area for days at a time -- if you insist on seeing 11 countries in 17 days, the Eurail Pass is for you. Otherwise it's more flexible to buy tickets as you go.

Other rail passes cover smaller areas and durations. You can buy a Benelux Railpass to travel in Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg. If you're just traveling in Holland then the 3 or 5 day Holland Railpass is for you. To avoid any appearace of fraud, be sure to have your railpass validated before you board a train -- know the pass rules and follow them.

For example, with a 5 day Holland Railpass there are 5 blank boxes where you fill in the date for each day you travel. You MUST fill in the date before getting on the train. Then when the conductor finds you he will validate your travel for that day. If you don't fill in the date correctly you could be fined, no matter how innocent you are. When you buy a railpass read all the rules and conditions, then follow them carefully.

With tickets or railpasses in hand, it's time to find the correct platform. When I buy my tickets I ask the agent what the next time and track are for the train I want. At first I was always sure to be on the train platform 15 minutes early so I could board the train as soon as possible.

When I held a first class ticket for a longer trip I found that getting on the train early let me find the best seat for the trip. Once I became more familiar with the system I learned how to get there 2 minutes early. This trick only works well for solo travelers without baggage who are not choosy about seating.

Suggested Day Trips from Amsterdam

If you only take one train trip out of Amsterdam be sure you go to Haarlem. Haarlem was founded in the 10th century and chartered in 1245. It has many of the same attractions of Amsterdam without all the hustle and bustle. A train trip to Haarlem offers a respite from the sometimes maddening crowds in Amsterdam. At the same time there is a small red light district and a few coffeeshops for those so inclined.

Just 20 minutes from Amsterdam, Haarlem is home to the Tylers and Frans Hals museums. While the Tylers focuses on fossils, rocks and scientific equipment, it has a room or two of Dutch paintings worth seeing. Next tour the Frans Halsmuseum and be sure to take a break in the central courtyard gardens. The Frans Hals is noted for Hals work as well as paintings of Heemskerk, van Scorel, and Conelis van Haarlem. Also represented are Ruisdael, van de Velde and Cuyp.

There's more to see in Haarlem.St. Bavokerk is a 15th century cathedral with a huge pipe organ, long considered the best in the world. The organ was built in 1738 and has been played by Handel and Mozart. The rest of the church is just as impressive. St. Bavokerk is located on Grote Markt next to other impressive buildings. The Meat Hall (1603), Fish Hall (1769) and Stadhuis (city hall, begun 14th century,) can all be seen while you sit at one of the terrace cafes lining the square.

Another great day trip involves the Wadden Island Texel north of Amsterdam. Starting at Amsterdam Centraal Station, take the one-hour train ride to Den Helder. From the train station in Den Helder you can ride a bus to a ferry terminal at the shore. A 20 minute ferry ride is all that separates you from the island of Texel with its quaint towns, beaches, dikes, windmills and views of the North Sea. If you need a snack, the snack bar is only open for a few minutes, so be sure to go there first.

The next suggestion takes more time but is well worth the visit. While you could stay in Maastricht for days and still find things to do, a day trip from Amsterdam is rewarding. Get the the Centraal Station early; the trip takes over 2 hours so you should arrive in Maastricht before noon. Walk from the Maastricht train station towards and across the Maas River into old Maastricht. A circular tour will show you the sights of St. Servaaskerk, other impressive churches, and a series of old fortifications, towers and turrets from a bygone era. Stop and eat on Koestraat or Stokstraat, or find a table at the Thermen square located on the site of Roman ruins.

If you want to see the beautiful southwest of Holland known as Zeeland, take the train from Amsterdam Centraal Station to Bergen op Zoom, about 2.5 hours away. Go a little farther on to see Middelburg and Vlissengen on the Schelde River. Seeing these three cities could eat up the entire day, so make sure you don't miss the train back to Amsterdam. Better yet, stay overnight in one of these towns to feel the atmosphere of smaller Dutch cities.

Once you are this far south in Holland, Brugge is not far away in Belgium. Brugge was prosperous earlier than other European cities, and somehow Brugge was barely touched by World War II, preserving the quaintness the city exudes. While it's possible to leave early from Amsterdam with the idea of a day trip to Brugge, it's better to spend a night or two there in Belgium. Brugge is a wonderful city that everyone should see; between it's history, nightlife, museums, towers, canals, wine bars and genever bars, you should stay in Brugge at least 2 nights to afford a full day of tourism. If there's time you should see Ghent as well.

From Amsterdam there are two train routes to Brugge, Belgium. The fast way goes by train through Rotterdam, Dordrecht and to the Dutch border city of Roosendaal. The next major stop is at Antwerp in Belgium, where you will need to change trains. If you stayed on the train you'd arrive in Brussels, and from there you could reach Brugge through Ghent. Assuming you changed trains at Antwerp, your new train takes you directly to Brugge.

One Way Travel -- Daytime Trip Suggestions

A different route studied in reverse starts in Brugge. A bus is taken for a quick tourist stop at Sluis, Holland's southernmost quaint city. From Sluis take another bus north to the city of Breskens on the Schelde River (across from Vlissengen). A ferry crosses the Schelde to Vlissengen which has a train going back up through Middelburg and Bergen op Zoom on the way back to Amsterdam.

This trip will take a minimum of a few hours. Because you will want to make stops along the way, a trip like this can take an entire day if you include time spent looking around, eating, waiting for trains and buses, and getting lost. You can consider these types of trips when you are traveling light. If you only have one bag it's easy to get off the train anywhere you want to, look around, and return to the station for the next train. For those traveling with more luggage, it's better to consider point to point trips which offer the best scenery. This way you only load and unload your bags once.

Trips along the Rhine River in Germany are rewarding. If you travel from Amsterdam to Munich, the train follows wonderful scenery between Cologne through Koblenz on through Stuttgart in Germany. The route between Koblenz and Luxembourg through Trier goes through the Mosel River valley. You can also travel through this part of the Mosel by riverboats. At the end of this journey awaits Luxembourg City in the 1000 square mile country of Luxembourg, situated between Belgium, France and Germany.

Once done touring the many fine sights in Luxembourg City, you have two ways to return to Holland. First you could take a 3-4 hour train to Brussels, Belgium. Here you should see Brussels Grand Place, one of the best public squares in the Benelux. Pass by the commercial aspects of Brussels but do try to see the Royal Museum. When done in Brussels, travel onto Antwerp, another city worth visiting. From Antwerp the train goes into Holland through Dordrecht, Rotterdam and Amsterdam.

I prefer to travel between Luxembourg and Amsterdam a different way. Traveling northwest out of Luxembourg City the train winds it's way through small towns in the Ardennes mountain range in southeast Belgium. Possibly switcing train in Liege, the train then continues north, leaving Belgium and entering Holland at Maastricht. From Maastricht you will only be 2 more hours of train travel from Amsterdam.

The train ride between Munich and Vienna takes most of the day and passes through picturesque rolling fields with the imposing Alps in the background. Along the way is Salzburg, a small Austrian city worth visiting for hours or days. Stay there or move onto Vienna, an important cultural capital and former seat of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and House of Hapsburg (check this).

Suggestions for Overnight Train Travel and Trips

While you're in Vienna, you should know that night trains leave Vienna toward many useful destinations. I took an overnight trip once beginning in Vienna and ending in Zurich, Switzerland on the way to Basel. I got off in Zurich because I wanted to make the side trip south to Lucerne. Along the way to Lucerne is Zug, a cute small Swiss town. Next is Lake Lucerne. This lake and city offer superb exposure to traditional Swiss architecture and construction. I made the short walking tour from the train station through the old part of town. Across the river are bridges with historical scenes painted inside.

After the walking tour I found a boat that tours Lake Lucerne. Succumbing to tourist pressures, I got off the boat near the rack railway to Mt. Pilatus. After experiencing the thin air and horizon-spanning views from the mountaintop, I took the cable-car gondola down the other side back into Lucerne. Now that I was done with Lucerne, I trained back up through Zurich to Basel where I boarded a night train to Amsterdam.

Before these two night train trips I had ridden from Paris to Barcelona on the Spanish Talgo Hotel Train overnight. This was the best trip -- I only spent a few hours in Paris, enough to know that I need to go back on a day when the Louvre is open. I also did a whirlwind tour of Barcelona in 2 days, all the time thankful for the Blue and Red tourist bus. These quick sightseeing experiences helped me choose the philosophy of spending more time in less places. In that case, however, the train ride was a worthwhile and memorable part of the trip.

My private room on the Talgo was decked out in pink tile and had its own toilet and shower. This is the height of luxury and consumption in Europe. To have my own toilet and shower in a private room on the train cost me an extra $190 above the cost of my Eurailpass. It was worth doing once, but a side effect is that everyone on the train could easily mark me as a "rich" American. This type of extravagance is enjoyable, but sometimes it's better to travel more modestly. Modesty make you less of a target for thieves.

While night trains are practical, you should not overuse them. Trying to sleep while being rocked back and forth in my bed, I decided that 3 overnight trips was enough. After my arrival into Amsterdam on my third night train trip I decided not to do it again anytime soon. Three years later I have not broken my vow. I will certainly make more overnight train trips in the future. My recent trips to Europe have been focused on seeing small towns so I spend nights in small hotels to experience each town's unique atmosphere.

To prepare for nights trains you should get to the station early. Take some snacks on board -- if you get hungry in the middle of the night there's won't be a meal car open. Always carry important documents (passport, tickets) on your person. If you have a first class sleeper car room there will be times when you wish to wander around the train. Theft does occur, so don't leave valuable things where they can be taken. Also it's wise to be in your room when the train is stopped in a station. Station stops present the best chance for would-be theives to exit the train quickly.

Station Information and Practical Tips

Keep in mind that trains have been in use a few decades longer in Europe than in the US, and that most European cities were built before the invention of cars or trains. While cars often are restricted in city centers, most train stations are located at the city center or within easy walking distance of the most interesting sights cities and towns have to offer.

Aside from buying tickets and taking trains, train stations offer various services. Occasionally I go to Amsterdam Centraal Station just to eat at Het Station Restaurantie, a cafeteria style restaurant on track 2 that offers cooked to order meals and self-serve selections. While there are certainly better restaurants in Amsterdam, I love the ambience of anything connected to the Centraal Station. Myriad other services can be found at Amsterdam CS including money-changing, hotel reservatins, two VVV tourist offices, Pizza Hut, ETOS pharmacy, a magazine and book store, snack bars & kiosks, a music store, Ben & Jerry's ice cream, and Cafe Balkon and Burger King both overlooking the busy arrivals hall. There is even a public-pay toilet marked WC on track 2 -- always carry change for these pay-toilets.

Amsterdam Centraal Station has a special ticket office devoted to international travel. To buy tickets for travel within Holland, find the Binnenland windows. For international ticket purchases, follow the International signs and enter the office through the doors. Inside the doors is a "take-a-number" machine. Pay careful attention that you get the right type of number. There are different buttons for different priorities.

In all train stations you will find lots of clocks. Many clocks are on the platforms next to electronic and mechanical signboards which display information for the next train. When you arrive at your platform, be sure to look up for these train-specific signs. The sign should show your train, and may give other information as well. This could include a list of what stops the train makes, special notes of stops that are ommitted, and an indication of where the First Class cars will arrive.

Because the majority of European city dwellers own bicycles but not cars, the train plays a central role in European travel. When my tourist destination is surrounded by rush-hour traffic, I can ignore the rush, whisk into a city center on the train, step off onto the station's platform. Then I'm ready to see the sights.

Interesting Stations and Sights Near Stations

Sometimes the attraction is the station itself; Amsterdam's Centraal Station is high on the "must-see" list in Amsterdam's city center -- it was completed in 1889 with some interesting architecture. Within minutes of walking are the infamous Red Light District, plus safer neighborhoods like the Jordaan and Dam Square. Leaving the country? A 15-25 minute ride takes you from the station to Schiphol-Amsterdam Airport, the busiest airport in Europe.

Schiphol Airport is built directly above the Schiphol train station. Only 15 minutes from south Amsterdam, Schiphol is an excellent example of efficient planning and construction. As you step off the train at Schiphol and go up the escalator, you are carried up into a well designed shopping area in the center of all the airport facilities. Frankfurt, Germany is another city with a train station directly coordinated with an airport -- I wish we had that idea here in the United States.

Thirty minutes by train from Amsterdam is Utrecht, a major transportatoin hub and important tourist destination. The train station in Utrecht is connected to the Hoog Catharijne, a huge-mega-indoor shopping mall. Utrecht was founded millenia ago and used during Roman times when it was called Trajectum. Utrecht's first political event was in 745 when a Frisian Bishop settled there. Throughout the next 1000 years Utrecht was attacked and sometimes conquered repeatedly.

Writeup another station here, if you can think of an interesting one.