The VVV is a tourists dream. Most European countries have tourist offices, but the Dutch outdo the other ones I saw in Germany. Spain and France by a mile. The ones in Austria and Switzerland were also quite helpful.

The fact that Holland is very small combined with Dutch pride means that things work pretty much the same across Holland. There are VVV offices almost everywhere.

What can you do at the VVV?

• Reserve hotel rooms throughout Holland
• Buy maps, including specialized bicycle maps
• Get much tourist information: they answer all your questions
• Buy a museum card
• Buy a strippenkaart, the strip card used on trams

The Circle Tram begins and ends at Amsterdam Central Station. It is great for getting around the outer areas of Amsterdam. Further, it stops at many important tourist destinations like the Rijksmuseum and the Hortus. It costs a bit more than the normal trams, but is worth it.

When you want to ride the trams in Dutch cities, your fare depends on how many zones you will travel through. The center of Amsterdam is all in the same zone, so yo will always pay the same price each time you get on. Last time I checked it was 3 guilders.

It is a big hassle to get on the trams and try to get the drivers attention so you can pay them. Typically, if they are interested in collecting fares they will have an extra conductor in the back, in a booth. To get on the tram you enter at the rear, paying as you pass this booth. If this person is not on the tram, the driver may be too busy driving to want to collect your fare.

Because of this, there is a great game going on in Amsterdam -- free tram riding. You may get away with it, but probably only if you know which lines are heavily watched and which are left alone. At any time a group of transit officers can board the train and demand to see everyone's tickets. They will attempt to fine you $30 if you do not hold a ticket.

If you want to have an easier time on the trams, go to any VVV office and buy a stripcard. The cost anywhere from $7 and up. I usually buy the 15-ticket stripcard. Then when you get on the tram, assuming you are only going within one zone, you stamp 2 ticket-spaces on your card. You can do this in the ubiquitous yellow boxes designed for this purpose.

If the yellow boxes function is not immediatley obvious, ask someone. Most Dutch are more than happy to help non-obnoxious tourists. They will admire you for wanting to pay, as the Dutch look down on those who try to ride free.